My old T3 Guzzi used a single thick nut on top of the washer for headrace adjustment, but then the chunky alloy yoke also has a pinch bolt around the stem to lock the yoke to the stem tightly too. Doesn't look like an option with your yoke though. All looks interesting and informative. I might in due course be looking at getting the forks / wheel of a Z250T onto my CB250RS. If everything measures out right. Imagine I too could have a thread full of issues!
The bearings pictured in this quoted post don't look like tapered rollers. They look parallel which won't allow for taking up the free play. Hope I'm wrong or have missed something.
They only have a very slight taper so look parallel in the pic. You've reminded me that I need to order some grease for them though so good call haha
When I went up the USD route I had to make a new stem to suit my application , before that I tried the cut and shut and the results wern't good at all.
How expensive would a new stem work out? Definitely an option if the price isn't going to give me a heart attack. At least I'd have absolute peace of mind that way, knowing it is machined for the job and not butchered to fit.
Wow this sounds cheapasfucki....I was expecting hundreds for designing/measuring/CNC etc Happy days I'll get a new stem made up. Lee recommended a place in Manchester so I'll give them a call when I get time. Any other recommendations? And yep Bloke the current stem is a bit too short - I'll be having a new one made for the sake of about 8mm but better safe than sorry haha
I think Bloke is way off the mark , no not think , I know he is at £30 + mat , Do you honestly think you can walk into a machine shop and ask them to make a one off stem in under an hr.
15mm, but not sure about the section where the stem goes as it is sunk - so the lock rings will sit inside the top yoke. Even when you said £60 is less than I expected haha
ermm...yes. haven't seen the stem but i'm guessing it's a normal press in from the bottom (fnarr fnarr) shoulder around the base of the tube to stop it pulling through, step down in diameter after the lower bearing and then threaded at the top, possibly another step dependant on top nut size. not thick enough to machine a recess for the top nut to sit lower down then. could be worth dropping this guy a message and seeing how much to knock you one up...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Billet-St...96?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4d05afab30
Won't the shear angle put an excessive load on the bearing when the mass of the bike is mounted on it. I can understand a shaft that is horizontally mounted needing these to eliminate lateral play. Just doesn't seem right on a spindle taking up to a 350kg load with addition shock loads. Wear will be accelerated and if the upper race yields or snaps, then the bearing housing in the headstock will be compromised and that would mean a new frame. Think of it like this. Imagine a tapered wooden spindle 23mm dia one end, 50mm the other and 200mm long. Now imagine a rounders post base 200mm dia and 50mm tall dome. Now, which would you rather be made to sit on, the dome or the 23mm end upwards. Because the 23mm end up is what you are giving your headstock then beating it with a mallet. If you haven't given this alot of thought please do so.
I ordered them from another site but here are the same ones: http://shop.marksman-ind.com/99-3538-31x55x18-taper-roller-with-seal-2214-p.asp I believe they're a common replacement for the XJ6 and R6 lower bearings. I used this fork converter to find the parts (really handy for most bikes): http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion
Certainly the the image in your first link looks much more like what I expect to see. The picture you posted, that I referenced must have an optical illusion. As long as your completely happy.