R6 front end on the XJ6N

Discussion in 'Projects & Modifications' started by Lilday, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. Lilday

    Lilday Little Day VIP Member

    Had a little idea for an upgrade on the bike in November. Been working on it for the past few months (along with uni work, so progress is slow).

    So here is my bike now, with the standard forks (They've got some carbon wrap on, but still standard)
    [​IMG]

    Here is how it should look with the R6 upgrade (mudguard not changed but will be)
    [​IMG]

    After doing the photoshop, I decided I wanted the top & bottom yokes to be black. Silver looks cheap I think.

    So 30th November 2013 I collected the front end, imported from the US to Ireland, and from Ireland to me.
    [​IMG]
    • Forks
    • Wheel
    • All nuts/bolts/spindle
    • Brake calipers
    • Brake levers
    • Brake hoses
    • Top yoke
    • bottom yoke & stem
    • clip-ons
    • controls
    • clutch lever
    • mudguard
    Spent hours cleaning them up, getting them nice and shiny.
    Rebuilt the brake calipers, binned the old hoses.
    Primed and sanded the mudguard, (needed some filling too...slight scuff)
    Had the bottom yoke powder coated black

    I wanted them to look like Ohlins so popped some stickers on. I know its fake so think what you want. Fact is I'm a slow rider anyway so upgrading to ohlins would be a waste of money. Even R6 forks are over-kill for my lump of a bike...but I enjoy it, and want it to be different.

    Bought some PR3s for summer, so I can fit the front wheel without swapping tires at the time. Fitted my own tyre thanks to Dayo :D
    [​IMG]

    Now the hard part. This hasn't been done properly before (one guy tried to bodge it but I think he failed) because the R6 stem is shorter than the XJ6. Also, the bearings are obviously not standard.

    I've picked up bearings which should fit the R6 stem and the XJ6 frame. Won't know for sure until it is in bits but from what I've read and the measurements it should be fine. The other problem is the stem length. Because it is slightly (no more than 1cm) shorter than the XJ6, only one lock ring can be fitted. Options have popped up such as red loctite, but I want to think of something I can trust so at the moment it looks like I'll be shaving both lock rings down to about 60% of their depth so they can both be threaded on. I've found that the top yoke sits on the lock rings anyway, and so should (in theory) act as a third locking ring and stop any chance of them coming loose. Again, another thing I'll just have to work out when it is in bits and I can get some accurate measurements.

    all the bits:
    [​IMG]

    new levers:
    [​IMG]

    ohlins stickers haha:
    [​IMG]

    Latest update:
    [​IMG]

    Just waiting on arrival of the top yoke, and need to paint the mudguard.​

    I've got an MT03 headlight that I picked up cheap too, but they want £100 just for a bracket...so I think I'll be giving that a miss.

    Preemptive question strike:
    Why not just buy an R6?
    Three reasons;
    • I don't like having a faired bike. After my first bike, it is just a headache to try and keep it clean. An oil change goes from 5 bolts and half an hour (XJ6N) to 22 bolts, 8 panels and 2+ hours (R125).
    • Insurance. Insurance on an R6 is insane compared to the XJ6N commuter lump.
    • Restriction. I'm still restricted to 33bhp until December 2014, so restricting an R6 to 33bhp would just suck. I know I'll be keeping the XJ6 for a few more years so might as well spend some money and get it how I want it.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 23, 2014
    10 people like this.
  2. lee

    lee Moderator Staff Member

    Fair play lilday.
    Thats gonna really look the part.
    Can I make a suggestion.
    What about finishing it off nicely with a different swingarm?
     
    2 people like this.
  3. Dave

    Dave Moderator Staff Member

    that looks Major nice ...it will be a different bike and handle so much for the better..it will initially be a strange feeling though from std to upside down suspenders, so take care the first few hundred miles till your use to it... Im taking it the geometry will be the same ? angles and wheel base etc ? OH and the brakes will be much more powerful ...love it
     
  4. ListerTheStupid

    ListerTheStupid Is it summer yet? VIP Member

    Nice!!! Keep this updated so we can see how it goes or not...

    Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk
     
    2 people like this.
  5. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    i'd be tempted to get a bit machined off from under the top yoke rather than doing the lock rings or just look for different bearings.
     
  6. Lilday

    Lilday Little Day VIP Member

    Swing-arm was on the cards for a while, (standard one just looks like a box haha)...

    I messed around with different ones (R6, R1, GSXR etc) in Photoshop and started taking measurements...but I asked my mate about it (andicog on here) as he had a spare R1 swing-arm laying around. He had a look and pointed out that the XJ6N swing-arm is pretty unusual in the way it mounts through the frame. I'm sure it could be done though. Maybe in the future :p It is also a pretty long swing-arm compared to most. A better rear shock could be a realistic option though.

    The positioning of the forks on the top yoke is very close to the XJ6N, so it looks like the angles and wheelbase will sit very close to the standard forks. As it hasn't been done before its hard to find much on it. Will be another thing I don't know for certain until it is done haha. I'll be taking it to Kais to get set up properly too, as the XJ6 is a big heavier than the R6.

    Not sure if that would work. It is the steering stem which is slightly too short, so rather than the top yoke being too low, it is the amount of threads on the stem that can be used. I could see about having some took off the bottom yoke to give me a few mm though, which would get the stem to sit a little farther in. (I might have misunderstood what you mean).
     
  7. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    machine a recess in the bottom of the top yoke, thinner yoke gives more thread sticking through.

    you could always get the swingarm braced? i reckon it would look ok.
     
  8. LFCKEV

    LFCKEV Well-Known Member

    GIVE ME MY FORKS BACK
     
    4 people like this.
  9. johnnyrotten13

    johnnyrotten13 New Member

    lilday whats the length of the R6 forks compaired to the XJ's as you dont really want to alter the rake too much.
     
  10. robj

    robj If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer VIP Member

  11. Lilday

    Lilday Little Day VIP Member

    Won't that be up to me when I install it? As I can just adjust the height of the front where the legs sit in the yokes. There is quite a lot of adjustment space in the r6 legs.

    This was an option but decided not to as it'll be easier to shave down the lock rings and they won't lose any strength. Would have needed a spacer for the yoke as the stems are a different diameter.
     
  12. pch1

    pch1 In the gang with Ewan and Charley VIP Member

    Aaaaah a decent bike post! :)
     
    3 people like this.
  13. lee

    lee Moderator Staff Member

    If your milling the locknuts down they will lose some strength, but more importantly its becomes much easier to strip the fine thread, as your applying the same tightening torque through 60% of the surface area.
    Exactly the same as when your using
    half nuts in engineering.
    Just be careful.
     
    2 people like this.
  14. johnnyrotten13

    johnnyrotten13 New Member

     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 27, 2014
  15. Lilday

    Lilday Little Day VIP Member

    I'll ask andicog to post his builds on here...his GSXR should be sitting in a museum it is so perfect haha

    Good point, I'm having them shaved down at a local engineering place to make sure they're 100% flat, but I think I'll be test fitting first as it may not be necessary.

    Two other options that have been suggested:
    - Just use one lock-ring with red loctite. A bit of a bodge but it will get the job done (plus the pressure of the top yoke against it).
    - Drill and tap a hole in one of the lock rings for a little grub screw to lock it, Looks like I could get away with an M3, maybe an M4.

    So still not set in stone. Will be another one of those things I don't know until I'm surrounded by tools and bits of bike haha

    I see what you mean now. I've placed the R6 forks up against the XJ6 and they actually look a tiny bit longer. I'll get a proper measurement tomorrow.
     
  16. lee

    lee Moderator Staff Member

    Of the options your proposing id probably go with machining the nuts down myself.
     
  17. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    how thick are the lock rings?
     
  18. Lilday

    Lilday Little Day VIP Member

    7mm, and a 2mm rubber spacer inbetween them.

    It is a pain in the arse lol

    I'll find a way though. End of the day I'm gonna do it properly, no bodging and I'm not in a rush with this weather.

    If something goes wrong with the steering it is game over. Will be done properly.
     
    4 people like this.
  19. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    yup, you don't want them down to 3.5mm, will be a bit on the weak side!! either new tube or just machine a bit from under the top yoke.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. Lilday

    Lilday Little Day VIP Member

    Just got an email saying the new top yoke will be delivered tomorrow.

    MOT on the 5th February...

    Two things, can you be failed on:

    No speedo (not worker out a mount yet)
    Dead brake pads (don't wanna replace as r6 ones are new)
     
    2 people like this.

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