tips for removing axle nut

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by rjvader, Jun 20, 2014.

  1. HondaPete

    HondaPete New Member

    If you take it back, make sure you get a bacon and sausage barm from the cafe next door! Its like sex on bread!
     
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  2. Cabernet

    Cabernet Smug to be riding the Moto Guzzi VIP Member

    Blimey! You are rough with your bikes if you would do that to your lovely Honda as well.
     
  3. rjvader

    rjvader Backpack Man VIP Member

    ive thought about heating it up but at this stage id rather not risk fucking it up by carrying on leaning on it. too much constant pressure and it will eat right through the chain adjuster, and then id need to replace that and probably the axle nut and the spindle as they'd get messed up trying to get it all off... plus i have a tendency to strip every bolt or nut i touch haha. safest option is to get them to sort it with the air wrench but if they cant fix/ want to charge me for it, ill just buy a new nut from somewhere and split the one thats on there (with a nut splitter not a grinder to save fucking my swing-arm) lol.

    once ive got it sorted, what would you guys opinions be on putting it back on (bathing it in copper slip or is an axle nut one of the bolts you shouldn't use coperslip on?) at a lower torque than recommended and monitoring its position to check its not coming loose. either that or perhaps lock-wiring it at a lower torque to avoid this situation again but be certain it wont come loose. i don't fancy getting a hernia/garage bill every time i need to get my back wheel off haha.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 21, 2014
  4. Cabernet

    Cabernet Smug to be riding the Moto Guzzi VIP Member

    That's why I heat the socket away from the bike and allow heat transfer to the nut.
     
  5. markc6631

    markc6631 New Member

    What size is the nut and thread? 150 Nm isn't that tight. Torqued a hub nut up to 1400Nm last night lol, granted it was a bit bigger.
    It's just been over tightened, once you get it back on, torque it up if you're unsure and you should have no problems getting it off in future.

    When I had the same problem a few months back I just nipped down to the nearest tyre shop and asked them to buzz it with the air gun because I couldn't be arsed riding to work. Took 2 secs, no charge, just nipped it up again, went home and did the chain.

    If the lot is turning it needs impact and if the lot still turns then heat.
     
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  6. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    heat it up if you want, it will be fine. you don't really want constant pressure, bar on it with plenty of weight and smack the head of the bar/socket. don't mamby pamby around though, belt it with a bloody big hammer.
     
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  7. rjvader

    rjvader Backpack Man VIP Member

    the concern with that method is the "apply load and wait" part. if im applying pressure while the heat is transferring to the nut, its the constant pressure thats gonna bite through the rest of the chain adjuster.

    it is a feasible idea though (i regularly heat up the lids of jam jars etc when my weakling arms arent enough to manhandle them haha), but i don't think its completely suitable for this, due to the adjuster being made of silver cheese.
     
  8. rjvader

    rjvader Backpack Man VIP Member

    1400?! are you he-man or something? lol

    its a 22mm nut. only seems a lot to me from where ive been doing some googling and found plenty of other more powereful bikes have it torqued quite a bit lower.
     
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  9. markc6631

    markc6631 New Member

    Lol, torque multiplier ;).
    The recommended torque will go off the size/thread/strength/material of the fastener.
     
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  10. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    the torque figure isn't that high, it's easy to go past that when you are tightening it if you don't use a torque wrench.

    DO NOT UNDER TORQUE IT
     
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  11. lee

    lee Moderator Staff Member

    Its more like delicate surgery.
    At first.....

     
  12. rjvader

    rjvader Backpack Man VIP Member

    the caps lock has spoken... recommended settings it is then haha.
     
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  13. Radicalrabit2

    Radicalrabit2 Peak Park Tour Guide VIP Member

    Plus gas Is better than wd40 as a freeing agent.
     
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  14. johnnyrotten13

    johnnyrotten13 New Member

    theres the answer if you need to heat jamjar lids up its obvious the nuts not too tight, its you your a fucking weakling..:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:
     
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  15. KTM_Dude

    KTM_Dude TT 2015 Booked! Oh yeah! VIP Member

    As above, Plus Gas is excellent. Just leave it on over night and it should come off the next day. I've used this stuff on red rusty nuts on tractors and other farm machinery.
     
  16. Radicalrabit2

    Radicalrabit2 Peak Park Tour Guide VIP Member

    I use it on exhaust nuts spray them every day for a week before tackling the removal and so far no disasters
     
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  17. Chops Mcgee

    Chops Mcgee Back Marker VIP Member

    Plusgas is the stuff to use. Ive used it to free many a stubborn shaft, nut, bolt etc. Heat and Shock is the best way.

    Did you get it off yet?
     
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  18. rjvader

    rjvader Backpack Man VIP Member

    went to Manchester motorcycle center on my travels today and had the guys take a look at it for me while i had a brew and a chat with the owner. (brilliant chap)
    they tried an air wrench...even that didn't budge it. the plan now is to cut into the chain adjuster so there's enough room for a socket to fit on that side too. then using one on both sides in alternate directions, the bastard should come off pretty easy. its purely the fact the chain adjuster is made of cheese thats causing the issue. the aluminium is giving up before the bolt is.
    popped into mmc on my way back and ordered a new chain adjuster, so hopefully all will be well by the middle of next week.
     
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  19. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    get it to a tyre depot that do commercial stuff, get a 1" windy gun on it and that will have it off in about a second;)
     
  20. rjvader

    rjvader Backpack Man VIP Member

    it isn't the torque thats the issue though. its the aluminium chain adjuster not being strong enough to keep the axle still. anything meatier would destroy whats left of the adjuster and have the axle spinning freely. cutting into the adjuster to get a socket on the other side or splitting the nut are the only options. either way i'll need a new chain adjuster now so that option won and its the cheaper of the two...

    just less than £8.50 for an adjuster from millenium, the price at yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk for the axle nut was £28 quid!
     

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