I changed the oil and filter yesterday and let it drain for over an hour ! Added the oil and filter and set out today to get my suspention setup. Got home and looked it was black again ? With my hornet the oil has always stayed red castrol power 1 race never black. Why is this? its annoying me and making me want to change it again
does sound a bit strange? i did the sd (used same castrol oil) stayed lovely and red. can you drop the sump and check its not got some shit in it? its expensive, but maybe worth doing another oil change to see if the last one flushes it? didnt you say the last time you changed it you had the same?
Yer when it was serviced when I picked it up it looked black then . Might drop the oil again and put a new filter and oil in again see what happens then if its black again will take the engine out and strip it see what I find. Confused.com hope nothing major is wrong only done 3000 miles from new :-( anyone eles got any suggestions ??
i think maybe its just because its dark inside the engine and it makes the oil look black. you could lean the bike over and dip a maccys straw in the oil, put your finger over the end and get a sample, see what its like - i bet its still clear. if it's minging i can let you have some flush from work??? drop the oil, run this stuff through it then drop it again and fit new oil. i use it when im changing from mineral to synthetics or food grade oils. its normal to get residues in the engine and new oil will pick it up.... the filter should then collect any impurities, but the amount and size of the impurities filtered out will depend on the micron rating of your filter. too high a micron rating will allow too much contamination to recirculate, too low and the filter will clog too quick, shortening it's lifetime. (although near enough all oil filters will have an internal bypass valve or orifice) you might find this interesting (but probably wont lol!) http://www.baldwinfilter.com/ProductHighlights122010.html most automotive filters have a 20 micron rating - which tbh is hooooj! even 5 microns is big chunks, compared to the stuff i use at work. also depends on your air filter - apart from combustion byproducts, carbon and sulphur deposits etc, the only way contaminants can get inside your engine is via the air it breathes. your oil is actually a more efficient air filter than the air filter! but again, you dont want too fine an air filter as it will be too restrictive and choke the airflow into the engine.... there will always be a compromise between good flow and efficient filtration - the answer is to do more frequent oil changes = the key to a healthy long lasting motor
Looks red from this angle Ryan. Lol Don't worry about it. You know it's been changed and is protecting the vital parts. Mr OCD
um bit mad that try a flush like vvtr said should stay a gold colour for a while it only goes dark when it starts absorbing all the crap. where u work vvtr do u deal with running in oil?
It was clear red when I look after changed it lol will try taking a sample tomorrow see what its like. I am ocd only a good thing haha
no but new machines come with a 1 micron filter that's run for 100 hours... then it gets an oil change and 5 micron filter. apart from the ones on synthetic oil - mainly cos its like £15-£20 a litre, they just get a filter change and do oil sampling and analysis every 2k. we use a company called alcontrol for oil analysis - they can detect metals and other contaminants in the oil and from that we'll decide to change the oil or not - bearing in mind there can be over £6000 worth of oil in a machine! for example if molybdenum is detected its usually a warning of bearing failure - phosphorous / nickel from bearing shells etc etc plus they can tell the age of the oil, detect any molecular breakdown from heat cycling & emulsification etc - very useful info. when you just do an oil change and discard the old oil you're throwing away evidence of wear and tear. i you really want a scare, next time you do an oil change, stir a magnet round in the hot oil and see what it picks up! it costs £17 for a full analysis but you'd have to find a few others who want it done cos theres a minimum £100 charge. (but they dont all have to be done at once - ie you could order £100 worth of sample kits and send them in whenever you want) http://alcontrol.co.uk/sites/default/files/ALcontrol_Oil&Fuel2008.pdf
well not on that level, i wer thinking millers oil running in mineral oil obviously i need it to clean the redline assembly lube ive used to build it
Do you run the bike with the flush in and if so how long for ?? May do that at the weekend. Oil analysis sounds good if I can get a few people together ? How much you charge for the flush ?
you just run it for a hour or so, just the same as you'd run oil, then dump it out and fit new oil. note i say fit oil - as it's a vital component imo. it doesnt just lubricate, it cools and seals the engine. you'll only need about 4L of flush.... let me know if you want some and i'll chuck some in the van.
