Been looking at various things. The bike was jacked up 35mm at the back and dropped 10mm at the front. Can anyone make sense of why a tyre change effected road handling so much?
Im not sure what you have done with the tyres elliot what is the standard size and what size did you fit?
In my eyes mate the profile o the tyre has been changed so there is different geometry on the bike so the back will not dig in as much as the front when cornering if that makes sense.
Just got it home... Construction workers picked it up with their digger!!! Finally got into our garage. Pics: I think I'm just going to have to forget about guessing what happened. I don't think I'll ever figure it out. And once again thanks guys you are being good about this. Dunno what to do with the bike yet but I'll use this thread to update progress of both bike and myself.
Ive used 120/70 and 170/60 on a few bikes for years with no issues. The changes to front and rear ride height will have made bike much quicker to turn in. but more unstable / twitchy as a result. personally i think that is most likely cause. -10 @ front and + 35 @ rear is quite a lot for the road. Steering head angle would be a lot steeper. Steering damper probably would have saved it but bit late now.
looks like a scary off that one your dead lucky not to be dead...lookin at the pics your fork legs look like they are about 25 mm raised in the yoke..combined with35mm raise at the rear in my opinion would make the bike dead unstable...a raked out front end will give good stability at speed but wont go round a corner very well..if you sit the fork upright vertically it has the opposite effect also shortening the wheel base making it corner great but sh*tty at fast straights..look at the rake on some of the modified pro drag bikes....i had a go of a mates sv650 with stock suspension once and it was impossible to make it go round a corner...looks like you have set yours up to corner very well wich has left you with one obvious disadvantage
dropped the forks too low on my firesorm just to see what it woud do and it was very unstable... it dropped right into corners great but was very skittish at low speed... changing steering geometry can have drastic effects... as you have just found out
This sounds right as at low speed <70 it was very twitchy :/ You guys are helping thanks I was told 10mm but I bet it is closer to 30mm. Shame coz I loved that bike so much :'(
I agree I think -10 (or more?) front and + 35 rear is a lot if you're riding the bike hard. You could have hit a small bump while accelerating hard, that could easily have lifted the front wheel for a moment and if the front wheel comes down off line and bike doesn't have enough stability to sort itself out ... tankslapper
That looks bad mate ! Snapped forks ! not seem them like that for ages . You can guess for ever what happened, it could have been various things. Like you say seems to be pointing to the tyres and the set up ! I'm taking it you where " moving " ? For this type of damage ? When your better , and I hope that's soon, go back to where it happened , walk the area, it may re fresh your memory , if you are still haunted as to what it happened. That will bring some closure for you If your claiming from insurance , just becareful with those mods on the bike , you know what they are like Thanks for posting this , we all can learn from other riders experiences get well soon bud
The hope is yes. I reckon I can get it on track for around £400 and road for around 700 I have no interest in riding on the road so I've just ended up bring forced on track. Progress is good ATM im healing well and now able to walk. Battle scars are fading but wrist etc will take time. Thanks guys.
FOOOOOK ME Ive just seen the images properly how fast were you going mate !!!! (not a question dont answer) when your able get a set of step ladders over the lost so that you can suspend the weight (2 sets if you can) then start stripping the whole thing back untill you left with parts you can use. If you need a hand let me know.
