i would advise to get them tested i have had three around the same mileage as yours destroy the little ends because the injectors were delivering to much full.They don't usually fail completely just either deliver to little or not enough fuel usually the first signs of them going is knocking when started from cold they can also make idle and power delivery erratic or lumpy
reading through other forums on this problem it seems the common factor is just having had re mapping carried out ? What would change from that process to cause poor running characteristics?
To be fair, only in the middle of winter did it ever make any sort of diesel knock on startup or cold driving away under load. its always been a quiet motor. EGR, is the only item i know of replaced. Never been remapped only the ford ECU firmware upgrade and reset the counters / relearn procudure. the last time it was done (5 months ago) they had to force an "upgrade" because there were no codes showing it wouldn't take the upgrade willingly because it was already up to date so to speak. Jim, i am guessing you have driven a few of these with similar ailments so know exactly where i am coming from. starting from cold its rapid and goes like stink, but mechanical sympathy stops me thrashing anything from cold.
yeah i know exactly where your coming from and from what your saying i would definitely suggest changing the fuel inlet metering valve and the pressure relief valve also as a precaution get your injectors tested its a lot cheaper than a new engine it should only cost about £10 per injector. Yeah ive seen most problems with these mk7 transits the mk6 was better they would run forever with hardly any problems we have on that's done over 300k and still going strong
i got a pressure relief valve here tomorrow, worth doing the other too then ? ok i will know by friday i guess what difference they both make. watch this space - or classifieds for a cheap tranny lol.
if it was one of our vans id do both the inlet valve and the relief valve its likely to be the inlet valve causing the problems and has destroyed the relief valve
Ta Jim, is it something i can do at home myself without specialist tools, and diesel pissing everywhere ? i can see the fuel pump and the thing that bolts onto it, looks easy to access, no idea where the relief valve is though. It is booked into a mates place on thursday (well it wasnt my GF's car was but i nicked her space) and he can change these i guess easy enough. i also wanted an oil and filter change and possibly fuel filter too, the yellow marker is not even showing yet and if you push it it;s still in the green zone
yeah its a fairly easy job the one on the back of the pump is held in by two 5mm alen bolts make sure you put the new gasket and o ring on. The relief valve is on the end of the rail its a big silver thing with a black plastic pipe on the end of it push the red tab in on the pipe then push and pull the pipe it should come off then undo the valve should be a 19mm it will be VERY VERY tight! make sure you get the old copper washer out and any parts of the valve. When your putting the new one in a little ptfe tape on the threads is advised they can be hard to seal. you will probably need to bleed the system after replacing them also it will need a new pump learn and pilot learn anyone with a modern scanner should be able to do that for you if you have any problems let me know and ill try and help you out the best way to check if your fuel filter needs changing hold the van at 3000rpm for 5 seconds turn it of then look at the window if its in the red replace
That is a pipe dream, lucky if we make 2000 now, so embarrasing coming home. 45mph for around 4 miles in the A55. it's bloody dangerous frankly.
That sounds like it could be more than just the fuel valves have you got access to a code reader? I have had a problem like that before it turned out to be a faulty clutch pedal switch
now the clutch pedal switch i have heard of too. i wonder if it can just be disconnected to rule it out. there was mention without it, the revs dont fall away.
they don't like being run unplugged if it has failed it should bring up a fault code will it rev beyond 3000rpm in neutral? might also be worth checking the accelerator pedal remove the pedal and check for a build up of white dust
it sure did last night, i dipped the clutch and held the throttle, it stuttered to 1750 then went to about 3.5k out of the green zone and chuffed a load of smoke out lol. where would the white dust be ? on the contact switch again ?
The dust would be on the workings on the back of the pedal it will be very obvious there will be loads of it
nice try, it was spotless. bit of electrical cleaner on the contacts of the clutch switch and throttle switch too, bit of WD40 on the clutch rod plunger. on the upside i fixed my remote - soldered a new battery in
them blue keys are a nightmare there supposed to charge from the ignition how are you getting on with the van? have you fitted the fuel valves yet?
well - they fitted the pressure relief valve (old was was intact) and said it was all sorted. i took it for around 10 miles before it yet again showed its fault and lost power. when cold its fine and rapid. the pressure regulator never landed today, so hoping that will be fitted tomorrow and fix the issue i will say it lost power all the way back, but not to the extent it had shown for the last few days. it was easier to drive around. so that does to me show it's in the right area with fuel pressure.
