sv650 not starting.

Sat at the side of the road outside a mosque in Oldham waiting for the 2nd AA truck to turn up.

Bike was running until there was a pop from the engine. A gentle pop not a backfire. Then stopped. Now the battery is dead, with a battery pack the starter turns over but there is no spark. Anyone got any ideas?

 

first check kill switch is not on

also check kick stand switch and clutch.

or coil fooked

 

Fuses. They may be a symptom or a cause.

 

Starter won't turn with kill switch, stand switch or clutch switch in an incorrect position.

Possible coils but would 2 go at the same time?

 

Mysterious answer there Kev.

None of the fuses are blown, if that narrows anything down.

 

It tells me the fuses aren't the problem and not a symptom either.

 

Was the battery dead when you stopped or did you flatten it trying to restart it?

 

It turned over twice, then died. When AA man came there was 12.5v in battery, but when the ignition is turned on dropped to 5v.

 

does it have a immobiliser??? also why not try putting it into enginering fault mode to see if it gives you a code

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110382

 

I'd check the simple stuff first. Battery/electrical connections all done up, lead plugged in, spark plugs in good nick ect.

Spent ages hunting electrical gremlins once only to find it was a loose nut on the starter cable

 

Issues with starter solenoid coming lose is another common issue with the sv's

 

Presume you have it home now. Will the battery charge and hold a charge?

 

Why was you sat on the starter cable?

 

Get a new battery.

 

Was coming round to that myself.

 

Stu try the tip over sensor near the battery somtimes that plays up and put in dearler mode to see the fault.
There is an internal 100 ohm resistor inside the ignition switch which is used as an anti-theft feature (to avoid simple bypass).
When key-switch is turned on, one pole of the ignition switch connects the 12V battery power from the red/black wire on the ignition harness via the 100ohm resistor to an output on the Orange/Red wire.
That orange/red wire feeds into the ECM to provide the signal to enable the operation.
Not to be overly complex, but there is an additional resistor inisde the ECM that (along with the 100 ohm in the ignition) forms a resistor divider: so the voltage on the orange/red should be approximately 6.5V or so.
To troubleshoot:
1. Disconnect the battery
2.Unplug the ECM connectors & find the orange/red wire; use your multimeter on ohms to check for continuity between the terminal on the ECM connector and the opposite end at the ignition connector plug (Main harness side). This should be near zero ohms of course. (If open, look for broken wire)
Also check between the orange/red and the battery -ve cable - this should read open circuit. (If short, then look for trapped wire)
3. Connect your test leads to measure resistance between the red and orange/yellow wires of the harness going to the key-switch - this should be 'open' with switch off and 100 ohms with switch on. If NOT 100 ohms, then you have bad ignition switch.
4. If you do read 100 ohms, reconnect everything including the battery: set test meter to now read volts instead of ohms; read between the orange/red (orange/yellow on switch side) and the battery -ve terminal - you should measure ~ 6.5V.

 

Thanks for all your input so far. Haven't had time to do anything with the bike except plug in an optimiser. After nearly 2 days its still dead. Its a 3 month old battery, so I'm thinking rectifier is faulty to cook the battery???

 

Have you tried to jump start it?
If you can start it, measure the voltage at the battery when it's running. It should me around 13.8V. If it's higher you could be right. If not , it's probably a duff battery. I would take it back if it's only 3 months old and ask for a replacement.

 

Yes I've tried but it won't start, so can't measure any voltages.
Think I've seen a resistance diagnostic for the regulator somewhere, I'll try that first.