JET KIT - AID BLOCKOFF KIT - Help b4 i buy

Hi guys.
looking at this jet kit for my bike
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 19059&rd=1

As i have an aftermarket race can and i can do the airbox mod and AIS blockoff...
U rekkon it will add much BHP?
they rekkon around 10bhp and maybe more with AIS kit.
Works out about £50 for jetkit and AIS... cheap way to go quicker and i have a mate who can fit it all for me.
ur thoughts?
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P.s yes i still wanna do my test but will b keeping this bike for a few months anyways and no guarentee ill pass haha

 

Let me ask you something before you do this.

Are you getting lean power surges when at constant revs?
Are you getting crap fuel economy?
Are you loosing power/flat spots around the rev range?
Does the bike hang/cut out when trying to idle?

If none of these are happening, don't waste your money.

Put it on the dyno and check the fuel/air mix, or put on 250cc cylinders and heads onto the 125 motor, simple :>

 

bike does try to cut out when idling sometimes and i get flat spots in the midrange.
and its not very quick.
Havent had chance to dyno it, and trying to fin da damaged 250 to get the heads from is very very hard.
Nobody really buys the 250's in the uk, its so little price diff between 250 and 650 peeps just get the 650.
And to buy the heads new is a joke.
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are you a bike mechanic falcon?? you're knowledge is really high on all this stuff. i'm impressed...when i fit my new exhaust if it doesn't run right i reckon i'll ask you for help if thats ok?

 

He is just awesome at everything he does......everything x

lolz

 

I'm not a bike mechanic.

I understand a lot about mechanics, self taught you might say!

Get your hands dirty, read the manuals as closely as you can! Listen to people who know what they are talking about!

I do the majority of work on my bikes! Servicing is all done by me! Even done an engine transplant!

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In regards to your exhaust, if its for the Fireblade it will be for a fuel injected bike.

Full exhaust system (front headers + link/end can) *requires re-map/new(modded) ECU*
End Can (single can alone) *no changes really required*
End Can + Performance Air filter (Remap would be best, but some ECU's will account for additional airflow)

This requires you to change the map on the ECU (unfortunately very few manufacturer ECU's allow this)

Something like a Power Commander 3 or other items that plug into your ECU/Wiring loom and change the map/ignition timing.

There are other items such as Ignition advancers and Quick action throttles which will improve that "snap on" power delivery, without having to change the Ignition Map

 

You are right about the cylinders, the 250 is rare as rocking horse shit... even more rare to find a binned (engine fine) bike!

Flatspots in the midrange would generally be to how lean the bike is since you have put on performance filter/exhaust

Cutting out at idle would either be your idle too low, or the fuel/air mixture screw(s) on the carbs need adjusting.

Best place to do all this would be on a Dyno... but! if you wanna check if its running lean! do it the cheapo way

Tape up half of your air filter with gaffer tape! then check to see if the midrange lean spot has dissapeared! this will let you know if its running too lean or too rich!

If lean is the case (which it does sound like) if its around 3-7k revs, then the needle will need richening up.. now im unsure if the stock needles have any adjustment in them! usually a spacer (small washer) put underneath the needle head will raise the needle up, richening up the mixture at midrange revs. If the flat spot is up high on the revs, then its the Mainjet in the carbs causing the issue

Give it a test and let me know! I don't usually write an epic post...

 

think ill do some investigating into this
Thanks for help.
Ive looked at alot of hyosung docs about this and i know i have mikuni double BDS26 carbs with 90 front and 87.5 rear.
They advised going up 2 on front and back for use with a pipe.
Ill get my mate at BMW superbieks ot take a look and see if he can play at all.
Might be a waste of time lol
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If its in the midrange, it will be the needle that needs adjusting not the jets!

Idle is run by the idle circuit (smaller jet) and the air/fuel mixture screw.

These are approx from what I know about fueling and CV carbs.

approx 0-3000rpm - idle circuit / idle jet
approx 3000-7500 - needle
approx 7500-redline - mainjet

This is not the same for flatslide carbs (you wont find many road bikes with these anyway!)

 

Wise words from my mate whos played with this before sounds cheeper

 

exactly what i said!

but in more detail