Fork Seals

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by simon179, Nov 15, 2011.

  1. simon179

    simon179 New Member

    Where can i get them done and how much should i expect to pay?
     
  2. captaingoslow

    captaingoslow Rockin to myself VIP Member

    Do them yourself. Or pay about £60 to get them done.


    Sent from my iPhone 4s using my fingers and thumb.
     
  3. simon179

    simon179 New Member

    how do you go about doing them yourself?
     
  4. captaingoslow

    captaingoslow Rockin to myself VIP Member

    There is videos on YouTube showing you how to do them that's how I learnt how do mine.


    Sent from my iPhone 4s using my fingers and thumb.
     
  5. simon179

    simon179 New Member

    thanks il take a look :)
     
  6. Vvtr

    Vvtr ( . )Y( . ) Turtle Z VIP Member

    just a tip - buy oem seals & not the cheapest you can find on ebay.
    you will end up doing them again.
    and dont forget the new fork oil.

    have a look on a model specific forum for your bike & see what weight oil people have changed to for best results... some prefer a heavier oil than standard, with a different air gap.
    and also it may be worth considering changing the springs at the same time if you have a spare 80 notes...
    and seeing as the front end will be off, have a look at the headstock bearings, consider an upgrade to taper bearings & inspect / replace the front wheel bearings :)

    if a job's worth doing....
     
  7. NED

    NED revin the hell out of it while i still can

    i did the same..got the basics from youtube. dont buy cheep seals..i did and they leaked worse than the old ones
     
  8. jimbob

    jimbob New Member

    hardest bit is balancin the bike if no mainstand.. easy afternoon job though.. as vvtr said get the best seals you can.. cheap is expensive if you have to do it again 2 months later.. if i remember right from the last i did.. goes like this.
    bike supported solid with front wheel in air..
    parts at the ready. the longer sat with some dodgy setup the more chance of it fallin over n feckin it up big time.. so seals,shrouds,wheel bearings/seals all at the ready.. (might as well do them at the same time.. fer an extra tenner or so not worth pissin about.)
    remove wheel, calipers,mudguard and anything else connected to forks.
    remove top caps from forks and pull springs out.
    carefully prise off shrouds on fork legs and slide up the leg.there should be some type of circlip above the actual seal.( wire type thing on the last one i did.)remove that from its groove.
    right at the bottom of fork leg there is a hole with usually an allan key bolt. remove that and and the copper washer(dont forget new washers.important)
    then lift up bottom part of leg and give it a sharp pull downwards.. may need a few goes..
    once seperated remove the shiny bit from the yolks and pull off shroud/clip/seal. DONT GO TURNING BITS UPSIDE DOWN WITHOUT BEING VERY CAREFULL OF THE ORDER THEY GO BACK..STUFF WILL FALL OUT..
    if you decide you are confident with the internals.. pull it to bits and clean it all out.. diesels ok fer this..
    if not then dont. can sort the cleaning later.

    back together time..
    put shiny leg bit back into bottom half, refit bottom bolt with new copper washer and tighten. the chuck your chosen cleaner in. diesel/gunk or whatever recomended. move the fork up and down to work all the old crap out.. then drain fork using the screw at bottom side of leg.
    next fit seal.. awkward.. you need to some tube that fits over shiny bit of leg then tap seal in till it fits home.. then refit clip and then shroud.
    put leg back in yolk.
    repeat all with other leg
    refit wheel .
    now fill to recommended level/weight with fork oil.. if some big miles on bike or a lardy rider maybe better with a heavier grade than standard just to stiffen it up a bit..
    now put springs in then refit fork caps.. this can be a pain in the arse to do. DO NOT FORCE THEM IN.. the threads are very fine and easily damaged.. take your time and possibly easiest with a T bar socket wrench. THIS IS THE DODGIEST PART OF THE JOB AS IT IS ALL TO EASY TO CAUSE THE BIKE TO FALL OVER..
    put yer brakes/brackets/mudguard back on..
    job done..
     
  9. simon179

    simon179 New Member

    thanks, see jimbobs just massively confused me now haha because if i do it atleast i know it will all be cleaned and not just bodged, but it seems like a hell of a lot of work for the sake of 50-60 quid to know it will be done right. :S
     
  10. captaingoslow

    captaingoslow Rockin to myself VIP Member

    It's really easy to to mate just sounds it the hardest bit is getting them off the bike.


    Sent from my iPhone 4s using my fingers and thumb.
     
  11. CRAZY LEG5

    CRAZY LEG5 pɐǝɥ ssıd

    check this out

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A0p2OH6FmI
     
  12. jimbob

    jimbob New Member

    coulda put that vid up before i did a sh*t load a typin... :sweat:
     
  13. simon179

    simon179 New Member

    thats a pretty good vid and makes it seem so simple :) il giv it a whil when i get paid i think.
     
  14. CRAZY LEG5

    CRAZY LEG5 pɐǝɥ ssıd

    Haha I did not read the thread till after you wrote it
     
  15. bikenutter

    bikenutter VIP Member VIP Member

    Are these like fork andells ???
     
  16. jimbob

    jimbob New Member

    similar to O's
     
  17. simon179

    simon179 New Member

  18. CRAZY LEG5

    CRAZY LEG5 pɐǝɥ ssıd

    not sure about them never done them on my road bike but just done my kx ones in the bathroom

    http://[​IMG]
     
  19. captaingoslow

    captaingoslow Rockin to myself VIP Member

    I bet your other half was happy there mate
     
  20. CRAZY LEG5

    CRAZY LEG5 pɐǝɥ ssıd

    i dont have one anymore and thats why haha
     

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