Exhaust port stud removal

Discussion in 'Projects & Modifications' started by Rumpoldstilskin, Feb 22, 2014.

  1. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    Does anyone local to Burscough/ormskirk have a tool to remove the studs from the engine?

    One snapped but I managed to remove using a tool I had from my NC24 but it doesn't seem to fit the others.

    Need to remove them and replace with new as the rear manifold isn't lining up, spent 6 hours trying to persuade it in.

    I have loads of M6 studding awaking to go in but at the moment this is holding up the whole rebuild.
     
  2. jimmytanko

    jimmytanko New Member

    Do you mean an easy out? Where you drill a hole in the top centre of the existing stud and screw the easy out in and turn that to get the stud out?
     
  3. rich365

    rich365 New Member

    Hi mate what do you need ? Got most things i am a ex bike mechanic just work part time now I am in wigan but don't mind a ride out to help someone if u let me know what you need I will happily drop it off
     
    4 people like this.
  4. Stephen-Niall

    Stephen-Niall New Member

    Whenever I've had to remove studs from something, I've put two bolts on it, and unscrewed it. Dunno if it helps you here though !
     
  5. XJR1300

    XJR1300 New Member

    +1 for this as long as you have enough stud left
     
    2 people like this.
  6. bloke

    bloke smoke crack, it makes you look cool VIP Member

    i find it easier to use two nuts;)
     
    9 people like this.
  7. Stephen-Niall

    Stephen-Niall New Member

    Doh! Yeah, It would be easier with two nuts. :roflmao:
     
  8. Radicalrabit2

    Radicalrabit2 Peak Park Tour Guide VIP Member

    I am a nut .....
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    You sound like my saviour, basically something like these; [​IMG]
    To remove 6mm studs from the engine block.
    If you can help there's a bacon butty & brew in it for you, a custard cream if you're lucky
     
  10. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    Tries this, the RVF has such a tight working space though, can't get a spanner in and the ratchet spanners I have won't fit in due to the studs vicinity to the block itself :(
     
  11. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    Full studs but they're all bent, as I put one new one in its made the manifold completely off, may as well replace all to save future headaches as I have to replace the system in a few weeks when it's been re-manufactured.

    Thanks for the advice :)
     
  12. LFCKEV

    LFCKEV Well-Known Member

    What i done is flat off the 2 sides with a grider then, put mole grips on. Success
     
  13. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    Couldn't do that even if I had a grinder, think a midget with midget hands would struggle haha
     
    2 people like this.
  14. mybad

    mybad New Member

    A few pics might help see to get around your problem if possible :)
     
  15. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    Sorted it all this morning.
    Seems a fresh brain, a brew and some energy solves everything.

    Doubled up on the nuts, modified a spanner [​IMG]
    And they came out. Threads cleaned, new studs put in=proper job :)
     
    4 people like this.
  16. mybad

    mybad New Member


    Gald it turned out well for ya in the end. :thumbsup:
     
  17. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

  18. Stephen-Niall

    Stephen-Niall New Member

    I've got loads of spanners that i've had to heat up and bend for specific jobs. If you can't buy a tool you're often better off making it yourself.
     
  19. Chris6406

    Chris6406 New Member

    If theres thread left use two nuts lock them together and out they come
     
  20. Rumpoldstilskin

    Rumpoldstilskin New Member

    Sort of what I had to do but the space was so tight, happened after I put the engine back in the frame and wasn't about to take it out again.
     

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