Right so far ive checked. The fuel (for water) The pump filter both air and fuel taken the tops off the carbs Cant see anything wrong? I will change the plugs when they arrive... Please someone help as ive no idea were to start. The bike now runs but will not go over 70 and will not rev properly until warm.... FML again
Have you accidentally moved your idle screw? I presume you're getting a spark on all four plugs (Take plugs out of head, put the coil back over them and rest them against the head of the engine, then turn the starter, see if it sparks) Is there any crap in the oil? Maybe change the oil and put fresh (high quality) stuff in. If the bike only revs properly when warm, then (by my logic) it seems to be a lubrication or fuel distribution issue. Good luck mate :\
Your plugs in properly as if there not it will run funny till it gets warm as the engine expands and will seal it
Now you've got it running NOT past 70 still sounds like a fuel problem. are the Float bowls clear? What will it rev to in the lower gears?
(ps) is it reving cleanly on all four and then running out of Puff, as said check the total, chock operation.
you will know its all 4 arnt firing by the sound of the engine? or as soon as your stand it touch all 4pipes and you will notice them getting warm with in a few seconds if one doesn't get warm . then check your plug and ht lead
Right guys new plugs into today and still the same crap. The old plugs were abit mucky but one of them was quite oily??? (petrol ish) Could the problem be a mixture fault instead? maybe running to rich, or would that not affect this?
well thats a sign.... as the coils fire a pair of cylinders on your bike iirc... looks like the carbs will have to come off m8. ive had a clip come off the needle in the slide before and gave similar symptoms... it would tick over ok but ran like a bag of fk under load. as someone has already said, it could be a torn diaphragm which would mean one slide isnt lifting... but as you say one plug is fouled, it's more likely to be massively over-rich on that cylinder.... did you note which one it was? another possibility is the main jet could've come loose and fell out so youve got like a 6mm jet in that cylinder... or a holed float... you wont know without taking them off. drop the bowls first though before taking the diaphragm tops off cos theyre a basterd to get back in and you may find the problem straight away & not have to remove them. before you take them off, take some pics of the piping so you know where it all goes back, then unscrew the choke plunger(s) and unbolt the throttle cam - this should allow you to remove the carbs as a set without disturbing the balance too much.
yea it was plug (4) far right. I thought this might have something to do with it. I took the top off yesterday and the squidy black thing (diafram?) lol and they look alright so perhaps it is the carbs. Anyone one be paid to sort them? lol I've no f*kin clue how
quit fkin about & get the spanners out you pansy! it's only nuts & bolts! what can possibly go wrong.... :lol:
i need the bike everyday so i need someone who knows what there talking about lol. If anyone wants a job let me know!
right whole of carbs off then take the bottom of 4 off? then check the float etc can you just post a quick little guide lol i may try this now. failling that i might just run it on 3 cylinders lol
This but. It sounds to me that the fuel/air mix is waaaaaay off mate. Ive had the same prob on a zxr400. Runs sweet until xxMPH then just stops. <free> Cover up 1/3 of the air intake and go for a bimble. If its still crap then 1/2 of the air intake and try again. </free> <costs a bit of dosh> Then go to your local dyno and get them to sort it. </costs a bit of dosh>
i havent got a fazer to do you a guide m8 but theres probably a manual in the downloadable manuals bit in the garage... doesnt have to be the exact year etc, theyre mostly the same. just remember to take pics. you'll probably find the hardest thing is getting the airbox off. smear a bit of vaseline or grease on the inlet & airbox rubbers when you're putting it back together - makes it a lot easier and helps to seat the carbs proper. as soon as you have took the carbs off, put bogroll in the inlets, just in case anything finds its way in!
chisel it off from the side with a flat screwy - or a broken drillbit makes an ideal drift. you can either reuse the old screw or use a m5 allen bolt/ mark its position before you remove it - or just undo the connector & leave the sensor in place.
mate came round and we had a look hit the bowl with a hammer then gave up Just cant bring myself to take the carbs off incase i mess it up more, at least at the moment it runs There is a slight crack in the rubber that holds onto carb (4) could this be doing it? or am i just finding anything to say its that lol
it definately isnt helping... it would make the mixture weak on #4 to see if its leaking, spray some wd40 / easy start over the crack while the bike is idling. if the revs change its defo bust. they dont last forever. (yammys i mean lol)
ahh if it would make it weak then thats not whats happening then, coz the plug was oily surely that means its running rich. in which case back to the carbs