The clean up project!

Discussion in 'Projects & Modifications' started by tomo870, Apr 20, 2012.

  1. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Thought I'd share a few pics and I'm after some advise on how best to clean this mess up, products to use ect, all input is very welcome!
    Also got a few little jobs to do so I'll update as I go along, I know she won't be a minter but want to get it to a reasonable standard.

    Before pics, minging after the Winnats Pass tag challenge run!

    Would really like to know what's the best product/method to deal with the front of the engine? All the ally is pitted and crusty, I was thinking of taking the headers off and power wire brushing the lot, but feel its too harsh.
    Any ideas about the rear swing arm? The ally is pitted here too, but it's painted I think, couple more
    My sanctuary!!
  2. Dave

    Dave Moderator Staff Member

    have you stripped it back to the chassis and engine just to clean it ? or are you doing the rust removal as well ?

    it don't look too bad tomo looking at the pics, obviously you can see better than us into that.

    for cleaning i use muc off! i soaked the bike with the hose to wash off any loose stuff, apply muc off , leave couple of mins , then wash as normal , i use auto glym products , shampoo etc. then spray the bike with a water dispersant , this is a muc off product as well, have used WD40 before today though, normally comes up great.

    Im not an expert on cleaning up the metal on the engine or the rusty bits on the studs, doubt i would use anything too harsh tough

    keep us posted mate , I'm sure she will be a minter when done
  3. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    I've stripped it all down Dave, I wanted to do it before spring but didn't have the time, so I'm going to do it over the next few weeks until this weather sorts it's self out.
    I've got loads of paraffin and gunk ect, the rusty bolts I'm going to replace them and I've got some stainless steel cleaner from hein gericke for the headers.
    I wanted to change the coolant and paint my radiator so I've whipped that off, I need to make my wiring loom good where the numpty installed an alarm by hacking the loom to pieces and twisting/taping the wires together! That had an insurance approved fitting cirt too lmao!!
    I need to put new pads in and change the brake fluid too.
    The main areas are the front of the engine block, and the swing arm, joe has kindly offered to help get my fairings sorted properly.
  4. Lee711

    Lee711 Carpe Diem.. VIP Member

    Auto-glym and muc-off products have done the job for me, as well as rock-oil degreaser for all the greasy caked on stuff ( fantastic stuff, spray on, aggitate with brushes and wash off with hose pipe ). Used auto glym motorcycle cleaner and autosol with fine grade wet & dry on the headers. I'd say if any of your nut and bolt fastenings are well furred up then replace them with stainless and then coat everything in ACF50, areo industry grade anti corosion spray, its the dogs mate. Also brings your black plastics up too. lastly......... plenty of elbow sweat ... :thumbup:
  5. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Cheers For the tips Lee, can you recommend the acf50 stuff?
  6. Lee711

    Lee711 Carpe Diem.. VIP Member

    may as well do the seals as well mate whilst youv'e got them drained and stripped
  7. Lee711

    Lee711 Carpe Diem.. VIP Member

    Yeah tom, its a bit ££ but well worth it , check this ..
    good for all your electrical connections too mate..
  8. Vvtr

    Vvtr ( . )Y( . ) Turtle Z VIP Member

    gallon of diesel in a washing up bowl, load of dishwash sponges and brushes.
    thats all i use on mine.
    then a wash, then wax it up.
    look like new.

    diesel is better than any specialist stuff & still only 1.50 a litre ;)
  9. XJR1300

    XJR1300 New Member

    ACF 50 is better used to protect after the cleaning has been done,if you intend keeping on top of the cleaning then I wouldnt bother with it
    if you have access to a pressure washer and some TFR (traffic film remover) that will shift 80% of the shite just dont aim the water jet at any bearings electricals etc
    once the top muck is off you will see what needs attention
    a lot of cleaning products and materials can be found in the pound shops for example nylon scrubing brushes ooo grade wire wool for the headers and other crusty metal parts ,they also sell toothbrush size wire brushes pack of 3 for a quid handy for getting in all the nooks and crannys
    tesco sell a all purpose cleaner called Daisy 1.5 litres for about a £1,its concentrated so can be diluted 10 -1
    for the afters get some Autoglym super resin polish it brings the paint work up a treat and finally when your finished cleaning a couple of tins of WD 40 applied to all the electrical connections also makes a nice job of cleaning up black plastics under trays etc
  10. Lee711

    Lee711 Carpe Diem.. VIP Member

    can't knock that............ seen that ' SP '
  11. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Cheers for the tips! Don't plan on keeping on top of the deep cleaning so I'll have some of that acf50 me thinks!
    I'll give the diesel a go later, can't be that bad 'cos yours is spot on Martin!
    Tell you what I did notice, when I replaced my chain the other week, there was no grease in the soft link, just rust!
    Don't think I'll be running the chain threw a paraffin bath to clean it again, I'll post a pic in a bit.
  12. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Seals are fine mate, I'm anal about my brakes and always whip the calipers off for a good scrub and clean, the exposed parts of the pistons are gleaming and rust free mate!
  13. captaingoslow

    captaingoslow Rockin to myself VIP Member

    As for the swing arm can etc I would use autosol or I use britemax it's a two part cleaner and sealant as for the general cleaning of the bike I use stuff called meguires all purpose cleaner than a good coat of wax over everything wheels as well don't use wd40 as its leaves grease on everything and it will seal everything and that's it if you want you can clay bar everything as well to get rid of all of the crap you can not see only feel with a crisp wrapper over your fingers I'll come around if you want mate and have a look just ring me to sort something out
  14. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Thanks Joe will do mate!
  15. RSVRsmithy

    RSVRsmithy New Member

    First thing i'd do mate is decided how far u want to go with it, i usually start cleaning a little area and the next thing i know the engine is out and im polishing the inside of the frame spars ...

    Brake and clutch cleaner on the stubborn stuff around swingarm/engine with loadsa rags ... a gentle polish on the ally and a good soap and wipe down on the fairings, then ride it, i presume u dont want it off the road for ever !?
  16. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Haha that's the way I was going with it yesterday, had to stop myself before the engine was out!
    No don't want it off the road forever!! I like riding my bikes, just wanted to tart it up a bit mate!
  17. RSVRsmithy

    RSVRsmithy New Member

    Rags, brake and clutch cleaner a bit of autosol and i generally use some squirty soap solution in a bottle, spray on fairings and wipe off. Tbh just getting the crap off makes it 100 times better
  18. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

    Not really had a very productive day today with regards to the cleaning side of things. Decided to sort the wiring out from the previous alarm install.

    Was left in a mess, wires hacked and twisted and taped together, soldered the wires and heat shrank them, had to extend 2 then taped them all up
    Going to pop her wheels back on tomorrow and push her onto the patio, get on with the de-greasing then. Looked at it today and thought wtf have I started here lol, suppose it will give me the kick up the ass to get on with it!!!
    Ordered some acf50, new pads front+rear and some new fork oil and seals, might as well get them done while I'm this far.
    Going to nip to the local engineers merchants Monday after work for some stainless steel fasteners.
  19. robj

    robj If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer VIP Member

    The ACF50 is good stuff, but leaves a slightly sticky residue. This protects, but road shite does stick to it as well.

    If your replacing nuts and bolts, try here:-

    At least as good as pro-bolt, but without the price.
  20. tomo870

    tomo870 Tom VIP Member

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