2 years of head fcuk..but it was wort it

Dave have a look on YouTube for r1 turbo you will like it.


How is this project goin anyway.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using my fingers and thumb.

 

title should now read " 2 1/2 years of headfk... but was it worth it" lol

what sounds like an easy bolt on mod can easily turn into a nightmare as we've seen!
will be awesome when it's fettled but do you never sometimes wish you'd never bothered lol!
mustve cost a fortune so far!

 

2 and 1/2 years is fuckin right .. it might be three...still waitin on the oil filter relocation plate...gettin pissed off now..like i said a few posts ago could have made the part meself but the guy with the laith keeps sayin he will sort it on wednesday.every wednesday for the last month....oh ...its not as scary as you might think...yeah its very quick but like anything you get used to it...

 

what a fekin nightmare..spoke to me mate with the lathe..hees been ill with the shits and has backed out of prommising to sort the part tomorow...aaaaaaggghhhh!!!!!
i am going to plan D which is rebuild the turbo with an air cooled core and leave the oil filter where it should be...the only disadvantage to this is to change it i have to
take the turbo , rad ,exhaust and wastegate off ...i have all day tomoz free so if i can get a filter it will be rebuilt and running.then i can finally enjoy the fruits of my labour

 

nah m8 dont rush it... go with the cooled core.
it will be a lot more reliable imo.
can you not get the part made elsewhere????

 

i ran it for about 6 months last year with the air cooled core on the old header setup and had no isues...i just cant stand lookin at the bike in bits in the garage anymore..all the turbo bike projects i have seen are air cooled exept the bb turbos...think i will go back to the water cooled and filter relocation at the end of next summer when i change the filter and oil

 

To be fair this is an awesome read I remember first seeing it however long ago and thinking f###k me that guys nuts. So impressed on the level of fitting it looks bob on cant wait to see it done "and the power graph" lol. All the best with the rest of the mods.

 

its all back together again and runnin sweetly..apart from a slightly sticking auto choke.a prod with a screwy and some wd40 will sort that i hope.goin to give it a few small runs this week on 4 psi just to make sure the turbo spools up with no probs .then wind it up to 8 to 10 psi just to make sure everything holds together for the dyno

 

havin a bit of trouble with the fan switch...i have put a switch in paralel with what i assumed was the fan switch...when i turn it on the fan spins for a second then goes off and an engine light comes on ..i think this tells me that what i thought was a switch on the thermostat housing is infact a sensor which tells the ecu to turn the fan on via a relay at a given temp and gives the engin temp on the dash...electricory isnt one of my strong points so any hints on wether i am likley to fry the ecu are welcome...
if i find the fan relay and identify the live to the fan and put a wire to the battery live with a switch in it will this do the job...

 

yeh m8 i think if youve put a switch across the sensor it's picking it up as a short and reporting a faulty sensor.

on most ecu's the coolant temp sensor affects ignition advance so its quite an important bit.
(and expensive if you break it lol)
it will most probably hve a 5v feed so bridging it could damage the sensor or ecu.

might be as well removing the switch m8 lol!!! :O

i fitted one of these on my firestorm for finer control of the coolant temp...
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb92af06d

im not sure how the wiring goes on your bike but on mine the fan switch is wired directly to the fan and is easy to break into.
the fan controller above comes with a little sensor that you attach to a hot bit, like under a jubillee clip on the return hose and has a screw to finely tune the on off temp.
on the dyno you should be able to see the optimum temp vs ignition advance.... too hot and the icm will retard it... and too cool and it will advance it to heat it up, but not so much as to cause pre-ignition.

nice tidy piece of kit it is and under 20 notes
*note on the spec of the controller it states the temp sensor is for 0 - 100c, but if you attach it to control the coolant return temp to the engine, with the sensor attached on the outside of the hose you will only be reading 80 odd c rather than 95 - 105 inside the rad, so it works perfectly well.

the reason i fitted it to mine was after fitting some race cams and +4 degree advancer the temps at the lights etc went off the scale so i added an second cooling fan on the left rad, with this controller switching it in & out with a 3 degree differential instead of the 10 degree dif on the oem switch.... result = a much more stable temperature and therefore better control over ignition advance & power output

if you haven't already done it, i recommend you fit a much bigger oil cooler as well and maybe think of fan assisting that as well, just for reliability like...
once its sorted this, if you keep the oil and coolant temps stable theres no reason why it wont last forever!

 

this would be useful for control of an additional fan as in your aplication .if i use this to control my fan it would work for reducing switch on temps. however cos the fan is unplugged from the ecu it would give warning lights...do you think it would work if it was spliced into the fan wires as a kind of piggy back controler...
i did consider an oil cooler wich would be plumbed in with the oil filter relocation.but we all know how that idea panned out.. very limited room for add ons

 

you'll probably find that the fan isnt controlled by the ecu.
it will have a separate temperature switch (most bikes do anyway)
the sensor is usually just there to tell the ecu what temp the coolant is so it can calculate ignition advance and mixture if its cold...

there's no reason you cant wire a separate fan controller in parallel with the oem switch to make it come in cooler...
you need to have a look at the wiring diagram or just follow the wires from the fan to find the temp switch.

 

had a mess about with it last night.got some interesting results.....
found a way to make the fan come on with the switch without disconecting the oem bits ,,,however the fan spun the wrong way....then tried to reconfigure the wires and noticed one of the wires getting very hot very quick ,but the fan spun the right way yet very slowly....bit more tinkering and i think i will have it sussed..its hard to consentrate on such tecknicle isues when your fooked from a hard days graft.....oh what does oem stand for

 

er.... yammy stuff

or --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer

 

ned i've never met you or your beautiful sounding bike (you may be aswell but i would rather bum your bike)but i've been reading this thread for far too long (because i cant read) i wanna see your bike

 

i know i am beautiful cos my mum lells me so.
the bike is very nearly done, just the fan to sort out then the fairing is back on and it will be out and about for all to see.....no jizzing on the chrome tho cos its a b*st*rd to get the shine back

 

did you knoiw the fan on an 03 r1 doesnt blow it sucks ///insert joke/// .checked the polarity on the fan wiring in the manual and on the test procedure shows the fan rotating anticlockwise therefore sucking air through the rad....my fan switch is now working.dead simple .a wire from the fan to the battery with a switch in it ...done.
been for a quick ride and all is good boosts nicely 4 psi pulls well and no smoke ..if i get time tomoz im goin to run 9 psi then book the dyno

 

Pics please this bike fucking rocks !!!!

 

if the weather is dry and not too cold i will take a run up to the carrousel tomoz for some testing....oh an a cone of chips..any one else fancy it
if i get time i will throw a bucket of soapy water on it an do some pics